Wearable Art: Expressing your story to the world
- Aaliyah Harris
- Feb 11, 2020
- 4 min read
Updated: Jun 6, 2020
It’s not fashion or costume. It’s a statement worn on your body about creativity that makes you think. And what is art without storytelling?
In London, the multicultural scene makes it easy to imagine how diverse the talent is, buzzing with unique, fresh artists.
I caught up with three creative brands that are making an impact and spoke to the empowering women behind them, Diane Goldie, Okama UK and MENG.
DIANE GOLDIE
Diane Goldie is a self-taught artist who brings feminism, a fight against patriarchy, bespoke expertise and passion to her work.
“Finding out that Medusa was linked to rape and gaslighting, I then understood why I related so strongly,” Diane says, openly discussing grief, a history of abuse and significant life events that inspire her artistic vision. Although, now her mind is clear of negativity like many creatives this hasn’t been without struggle.
“My dad died, and my work became about skulls and death. A do it now sense of urgency coercing through my body”, she spoke of her path to a spiritual awakening. “Then when my daughter died that hurtled me into the law of attraction. Art’s all about surrender, being positive and creating your own reality”.
Artwear is a fabulous fusion of expanding ideas that challenge the norms of society about what is considered wearable. Personal visions, freedom and blending a narrative that evokes deeper thinking.
As Diane Goldie puts it, her art, “is unapologetic”.
Diane chopped up an old painting and transformed it into a tote bag, an idea that later developed to producing kimonos.
“I started doing kimonos because of Sue Kreitzman, who’s my spiritual mum. She bought me this big, ugly 1980s raincoat. I did a massive Medusa on the back, Frida Kahlo on one side, Josephine Baker up the other and decoration all over, It was mad” says Diane.
Fast forward to now, Diane says: “I'm doing a series on deities, exploring the concept of God. I can't not reflect Brexit. I’ve made protest pieces of the George Cross, subverting it and what looks like a Ku Klux Klan gown with a letter box slit - as Boris Johnson so politely put it - across the eyes”. Making light of politics is just one way that Diane expresses her emotions through art.
“I put portrait of Nigel Farage with horns and snake eyes then a quote from Monty Python saying, ‘He's not the Messiah. He's just a very naughty boy’. I like to subvert rather than get angry, I like to laugh”.
“The front of that gown has a response to the anti-immigrant narrative, it’s got ‘peace be with you’ in 23 different languages,” says Diane.
Diane tries to liberate her clients with her art, “When I put a woman's face on the back [of a kimono], I'm saying yes, declare your own beauty because this is yours to declare. It's not in their face, it’s literally on the back. ‘Having your own back’, you feel supported.”
Wearable art can be worn or exhibited. For Diane, her art is to be worn well. “I say to people, don't hang them on the wall and just leave them. Wear them, wash them, please get food down them, live in them!”
The Eco range involves upcycled, unisex, denim jackets, using applique, embroidery, sequencing and braid.
Originality is important and so Diane doesn’t remake anything, she says, “you wouldn’t tell the same story over and over again would you? It’s boring”.
OKAMA UK
Handmade art and buying a ‘one piece available per design’ product is a thrilling shopping encounter like no other. Okama UK embodies novelty and the founder and CEO, Valeria Pacific says that, “artisans work should be recognised”, because “every piece is one of a kind”.
Credit: Okama UK
The brand started around three years ago working directly with indigenous communities in Colombia. Valeria says: “I’m from Colombia. There is a big issue with displacement [in Bogota] because we've had a long war. Indigenous people have been pushed out of their territories; most end up in the capital city trying to make a living”.
Globally, Indigenous communities face similar fates, Valeria says, “we are aiming to save artistic expressions that are at the brink of extinction”. For the most part, “artisans express their traditional craftsmanship through traditional indigenous designs and art”. Okama works with four communities The Inga - Kamëntsá, Wounaan, Wayúu and the Emberá chamí. Art is imported to the UK, distributed and sold worldwide.
The Inga and the Kamëntsá’s art include beaded crafts, jewellery, breastplates, seed necklaces and wooden masks.
Credit: Okama UK
The Wayúu is known for their widespread, traditional mochilas bags which are brightly coloured and intricately made.
Credit: Okama UK
The Wounaan women create ‘face and body painting art, wood carvings, tagua nut carving, bead work and basketry’.
Credit: Okama UK
The Emberá Chamí is known for their traditional ‘Okama’ necklaces.
Credit: Okama UK
The complicated but fascinating process of how each artwork is created can sometimes take up to three weeks. Parts of the jewellery are made using a needle and wooden looms to weave beads together.
Bold colours, weaving techniques and eye-catching designs are more than just a pretty sight. Behind each artwork lies a story, from the colours chosen to the patterns picked. Valeria says these choices, “represent the world, their beliefs, nature and everything that inspires them”.
MENG
Eastern connotations filled with cherry blossoms and angelic birds, MENG is “not basic fashion”, but is “original artwork that stems from drawing”, says Kate Brinksman as she shares her insights working for the brand. “It started in 2013, she [Meng the founder] wanted something that could be used as a canvas to show art off rather than just having prints in the home”.
Credit: MENG
Relocating print to, “something that you can express your individuality in. Having it on clothes means you are a moving piece of art, an art installation in yourself,” Kate says.
MENG uses silk and other traditional elements that are significant in Eastern mythology. As the Director Meng herself, is originally from China, her work draws in various cultural influences.
Credit: MENG
Stocked in Harrods and Selfridges, Kate says the artwear aims to be, “more contemporary rather than traditional, like Japanese kimonos”.
Meng’s interest for psychology and philosophy inspired the brand’s innovation platforms. Alongside the art, “Fashion was getting a bit repetitive she [Meng] wanted to branch out and do something meaningful where people can see a story or gain more insight”.
The Humanity & Ideas blog by MENG shows articles written by the team. Kate says, “We've been in talks with philosophers. I think Meng wanted something delving into humanity rather than just superficial fashion. It’s a weird mix but it works!”
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